When it gets...
...cold, wet and miserable outside, the urge to wrap up and snuggle in grows accordingly. Since we humans do not hibernate and now and then have to leave the house without a sofa blanket, we need soft, cuddly, warm feel-good clothes. Which we sew ourselves, of course!
Also known as velour
A wonderfully cuddly material that is perfect for cosy clothes is Nicki velour. And not just for pyjamas, because Nicki is perfectly fit for everyday wear. If disturbing childhood memories from the 70s and 80s are creeping up on you right now, if you see teddy bears, mud colours, mullets and little moustaches … you are not alone, but we can overcome this trauma together. Let's give Nicki a second chance!
What exactly is Nicki?
First, let's take a closer look at this wonderful material. Nicki is the little, slightly less posh cousin of velvet. Nicki is a knit fabric made of two yarn systems. The back is smooth, the front is cuddly soft. Terry cloth and Nicki are made the same way. Shave the head of stretch terry and brush it up afterwards … ta-da! Thanks to its brushed, thick structure, Nicki has an insulating layer of air, which is why it keeps you so warm.
Nicki velour: velvety soft but tough
Maybe it is the relation to velvet, once reserved for the nobility, that makes many people think Nicki is delicate. In truth, this cuddly material is tough and therefore also great for kids' clothes. Of course, not all Nicki is the same: there are thinner, more delicate versions and thicker, more robust ones.
Did you know? Where the name velour comes from
Nicki is also called velour, and that word has travelled a long way. It comes from French, where velours simply means velvet, and goes back to the Latin villosus: shaggy, hairy. Behind that is villus, the shaggy coat of an animal. So the name describes exactly what you feel when you stroke Nicki: a surface made of thousands of tiny hairs. 🤗
Washing and drying Nicki properly
Does anyone remember stiff, scratchy, worn-out Nicki clothes? Yes? Right. That is Nicki too. If you wash towels without fabric softener and air-dry them in the sun, you know the effect. But it can be avoided.
Most fabric manufacturers recommend washing at 30 to 40 degrees and say the fabric should not be tumble dried. Yes, that is the safest option. And of course tumble drying stresses the fabric and the pile, and the extra mechanical strain makes colours fade faster and edges wear …
Into the tumble dryer!
But hand on heart. I have three children, let's call them the three little pigs, and I would be lost without my tumble dryer. I throw most clothes inside out into the dryer at medium temperature, including the whole family's homemade Nicki sweaters, and our Nicki quality has coped very well so far and simply stays soft, velvety and lovely.
If you are unsure, do a test with a scrap of your fabric. Or use fabric softener (or vinegar) to keep the fibres soft, shake it out after washing and dry it flat on a towel so the ridges of the drying rack do not press into the pile.
Ironing Nicki?
You do not really need to iron Nicki, especially not fresh from the tumble dryer. If it does look a bit creased, you can steam it lightly from the back, again with a towel underneath. Never iron from the front, as this can leave ugly permanent marks.
Cutting and sewing Nicki velour
Now for the sewing: even with solid Nicki you cannot lay out your pattern pieces any way you like. Besides the grain line (in knits), Nicki has a so-called pile direction that you need to determine before cutting. Does something sometimes rub you the wrong way? Yes? That is exactly the direction we need to find on Nicki, and it is easy. Stroke the surface with your hand: if it feels soft and smooth, you have found the pile direction, which should run from top to bottom on garments. Stroke the other way and you go against the pile and feel resistance. Why does the pile direction matter? Firstly, your garment will feel less pleasant if you ignore it, and secondly the colour of Nicki looks different depending on the direction of the pile. If you cut one trouser leg with the pile and the other against it, the legs would later look like two different colours.
Cutting Nicki takes a bit of getting used to. Because of the pile, the material clings to itself when placed right sides together, but also likes to shift and is fairly thick. Definitely use a sharp cutting tool (scissors or rotary cutter, as you prefer) and secure your pattern with pins or weights.
A walking foot is also helpful when sewing Nicki, and if you can adjust the presser foot pressure on your machine, reduce it a little. In one respect Nicki is a bit sensitive, though: always use a new, undamaged, fairly fine ballpoint needle (jersey needle). Regular or damaged needles can tear holes in the fine knit.
